A travellers guide to Bergamo, Atalanta and the ghosts of yesteryear by Mao
You may have heard somewhere that Merthyr Tydfil FC pulled off one of the all-time great European cup giant-killings in 1987. A team recently relegated from Serie A but also Coppa Italia finalists came to Penydarren Park to play little old us and ended up heading back to Bergamo pointless and with a greater respect of Welsh football, crowds and more importantly hospitality. The return visit two weeks later was another close game, but the hosts hung on to scrape through to play OFI Crete in the next round. Those of us who had the opportunity to follow the Martyrs into Europe will never forget those weeks when we were both the talk of football fans everywhere and unlikely ambassadors as the first British club to visit Italy since the Heysel disaster a couple of years earlier. We didn’t see a lot of the city when we arrived for the game, security was tight and the carabinieri were taking no risks, holding us on our buses inside a stable block and the stadium itself was an oval bowl of ter...